The address is enough to make you sit up and pay attention. Throw in the fact that it’s from Priyank Sukhija’s ever expanding stable and that it’s one of the few standalones bars in an area with a very stiff upper collar and you’ve got yourself a great deal. Lutyens’ name alludes to an English theme and they follow through with the décor. Imagine a Gentlemen’s Club of yore with plush leather sofas, dark mahogany furniture, bookshelves stacked with hardbound editions, vintage photos of the Capital and knicks-knacks spread around the entire space. Sadly, the food doesn’t show any Brit-influences (except an insipid Fish n Chips) and neither does the playlist, but the bartenders can easily make you forget that bit. The team churns out a range of interesting signatures using in-house infusions from glass jars lined up on the counter, so you can see what’s going in your concoction. The Cloved that has clove bitters and flamed watermelon along with their own orange peel infused vodka is one of the most inspired drinks on the list. While the Lutyens Sour with vanilla infused whisky, claret, vermouth rosso and vanilla grapes comes a close second. You can also try the infusions separately and we’d suggest the Smoked Bourbon. For the purists, there are classic cocktails as well as a range of whiskies, cognacs, white spirits and liqueurs including the dangerous Limencello de Capri. As for the food, ignore the recently added Indian menu and go straight for the Truffle Fries and Bacon Popcorn – both of which are heavy-duty indulgences. The venue is still trying to figure out its event roster, but take a business associate here and they are sure to be impressed!
Critic Review
Nightlife Review
Buzz: 3.5/5 | Décor: 3.5/5 | Service: 3.5/5
-By Deepali Gupta
Restaurant, elegant bar and centrally located meeting place all rolled into one.
ATMOSPHERICS:
Just above the Jaguar showroom in this three-storeyed building opposite the Meridien Hotel is the newest restaurant in this well-located part of town. On the second floor of the building, there are lounge tables, regular restaurant seats, bar seats and high tables. You can hold a meeting over snacks, read a book (there’s a surprisingly good collection), have lunch for two or drinks with loud music in the evening. Incidentally, the music system manages to fulfil two opposing qualities with ease: you can hold a conversation at normal levels, yet in another part of the restaurant, you can dance to the same music.
TABLE TALK:
Do have all the dishes that contain vegetables. The quality of the greens in the deconstructed Caesar salad (Rs 325) is seldom seen in this city. And the playful presentation highlights the quality of each element. Ditto for the poached pear salad (Rs 425) that contains baby carrots, onions and spinach leaves, given a kick with grain mustard. Prawn cocktail (Rs 425) is a tangy salad of lightly grilled prawns in a bed of piquant mayo. Souffle with arugula salad and cheese sauce is yet another vegetarian dish that took my fancy for the colourful presentation and delicate, mostly Mediterranean flavours. The chicken liver pate (Rs 475) needed the kind of mild tweaking that is usually the case in a brand new restaurant: the reduced balsamico that was mentioned on the menu did not make its appearance on the plate. However, the vegetable accompaniments made up for any shortcoming. Ditto for the ingenious beetroot risotto (Rs 525) that was less than perfectly made, but which featured beetroot cooked three different ways. However, the star of my meal was undoubtedly seafood with mussels, prawns and squid (Rs 1295). It is the most expensive dish on the menu but is packed with shellfish.
PLUS AND MINUS:
The location is the finest in Central Delhi. There is no parking problem, the cachet of the address goes through the roof and the interiors are restrained and have plainly been made with the intention of using Lutyens Cocktail House as a high-level meeting place between meals. On the minus side, not much effort has been made to incorporate English food to a restaurant named after an English architect.
Must try: Mac n Cheese; Butter Confit Chicken; Chocolate Box
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