Cuisine: South East Asian mix and match.
Easy dining with a great wine list.
ATMOSPHERICS
After the rather low-key Canton Spice closed its doors, Twist has taken its place. It is much more in keeping with the eclectic mood of Cyber Hub where hanging out with friends is more vital than having a serious family meal. The owners of Twist have been able to work this to their advantage: the casual sit-out that is great in good weather, the squashy sofas near the window, the uber-cool black walls in one part of the restaurant, the wine library that encapsulates the finest labels from across the world (courtesy one of the partners who is a passionate and knowledgeable wine aficionado) and the profusion of small plates from across South East Asia, all have a point of view that is very refreshing to see in first-time restaurateurs. Even the manager, James Hsiao, has been hand-picked by the partners to look after operations: he has formerly been associated with the company that owned Canton Spice for his entire career. There are likely to be more branches of Twist in other locations in the future. They will each have a particular cuisine – Indian could be the next – consisting of small plates, together with wine. This is one restaurant chain to look out for.
TABLE TALK
You are expected to order a profusion of small plates for the table and keep nibbling, helped along with a glass of wine. A few of the dishes are true to the original; many are not, but that is the whole idea behind Twist: there’s a twist to authenticity! Do not miss the Crispy Calamari (Rs 345), which are essentially lightly batter-coated calamari rings, dry fried with chopped dry red chillies and light spices. Tender inside and crisp outside, it is the unmissable dish on the menu. Also good is the Lusun Jing (Rs 265): fat stalks of fresh asparagus wok tossed with burnt garlic niblets. Saigon Fish (Rs 345) is sliced sole soaked in a sauce of preserved bean with smoked chillies.
PLUS AND MINUS
The main courses need urgent re-working, but happily the management (who is always present at mealtimes) is on the job. The sticky rice was over-cooked as were the king kong beans (Rs 275). But the service is far better than average.
Must try: Snow peas and green bean salad; pork ribs; prawns XO.
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